Day 8- Starr Camp to McClure Meadow — What We Saw, What We Read

Distance: 15 mi
Elevation Gain: 3,780 ft
Starting Elevation: 10,320 ft
Ending Elevation: 9,630 ft

Passing by the many lakes up to Muir Pass.

After a thunderstorm the night before, we woke up to clear skies at Starr Camp and the promise of what looked to be a clear morning for our ascent up to Muir Pass (Elev: 11,980'). This would be our sixth pass in eight days and our final one before our first resupply. We had just three miles to climb up (though a significantly longer descent to McClure Meadow) but we felt motivated and much better rested from our "day off".

We began the morning with our usual packing routine and filtered some more water for the day ahead. Just as we had packed our last item into our packs and were ready to set out from our site, a black bear lumbered by about twenty feet in front of us. Snubbing us, he continued his walk, disappearing behind some nearby brush. It was hard to register what we had just seen as we had both been told we would never see a bear on the trail (from many passing and experienced hikers) and at the same time to be constantly prepared for an encounter. We of course had all our scented items packed away in our bear canisters (and carried bear spray for good measure). We also felt comforted by how well trafficked the trail was and what appeared to be the abundance of natural resources for bears so that they would not want or need our snacks (or us). That being said, we didn't waste much time getting back on the trail and getting up to Muir Pass.

Our ascent became much more rocky and barren with each half mile. We passed several lakes illuminated by the morning sun. A few hikers coming down from Helen Lake told us that they had been caught in the storms the day before at the top of the pass. We were grateful we chose to spend the night at Starr Camp!

By the time we reached Helen Lake, all sign of vegetation was gone, and we were surrounded by boulders and the remaining snow around the pass. We stopped for a snack and then continued our ascent, crossing the snow and attempting not to lose the trail among the boulders. We were mostly successful, and after what felt like an eternity, we spotted Muir Hut and bolted up a steep and snowy makeshift trail to the summit.

Muir Hut was every bit as cool as we had anticipated. Apparently built for $5,810 in 1930 by George Frederick Schwartz, a Sierra Club Supporter, most of the cost in construction was due to transporting the materials by pack stock up to the top of the pass. We checked out the inside and imagined what it would be like to have taken emergency shelter there the night before.

After a quick photo, we began our slow and rocky descent to Wanda Lake, Evolution Lake, and eventually McClure Meadow. Unlike many hikers we met throughout our trip, our ascent over Muir Pass was not one of our favorites. As we navigated the rocky slopes down to Evolution Lake, nearly six miles after reaching the pass, the scenery had changed little around us. Only once we had passed Evolution Lake did the view of the valleys below begin to open up and we appreciated our descent through tree cover significantly more. Unfortunately, just a few miles before we reached McClure Meadow the clouds built above us initiating a chilly downpour of sleet. Once again, we put on our rain jackets and pack covers and continued until we made it to camp. Waiting beneath the trees for about thirty minutes, we caught a quick lull in the rain and set up our tent and filtered water. Then we climbed in to dry off and make dinner under the shelter of the rain fly. Eventually the rain subsided but the night was chilly. What kept us going was the excitement of a resupply the next day and all the delicious snacks we might find rummaging through the hiker barrels at Muir Trail Ranch. We had made it over Muir Pass and were ready for a little break (and maybe some Pop Tarts that were waiting for us in our resupply).

A Muir Hut photo taken by a well-meaning, but not particularly camera savvy fellow hiker.