Sedona — What We Saw, What We Read

Sedona was a great stopping point after spending three weeks in Utah. With unbeatable views of the surrounding mesas visible from the city and the feel of a small town, we knew we would enjoy our time here. Better yet, we were able to stay in the incredibly unique Star Capsule at Harmony House on our first night in Sedona --many thanks to Kathy, Dan, and Prahlad for being such gracious hosts!

We arrived in Sedona in the evening after driving down from Zion National Park earlier that day. Even though we stopped intermittently to stretch and walk, our muscles were cramped and our brains were muddled from the five hour drive. After pulling up to the Harmony House, Prahlad, one of the hosts, came out to greet us and showed us the accommodations. We unpacked a few bags from the car, ate some dinner, relaxed with a hot shower, and crawled under the cozy heated blanket provided in the capsule. There aren't any streetlights in the residential areas of Sedona so, the sun having already set behind the mountains, we fell asleep to a flawless view of the night sky.

The next morning we awoke to the sun rising over the mountains and birds soaring overhead. We packed up our bags and checked out of the Harmony House, grateful for the remarkable experience. We then set off to hike the Devil's Bridge!

At a little over 3 miles round-trip, the Devil's Bridge hike was one of our shorter excursions but the views along the way were unsurpassed. From the parking lot, we climbed steadily. First, on a rough 4x4 road, then to a trail until the bridge came into full view. There were a few groups already at the bridge, but the morning retained its peaceful aura. We snagged a picture as proof and decided to hit the 'ol dusty trail once again.

Before heading out of Sedona the following day, we stopped at Cathedral Rock for another short hike. The reason is unclear, perhaps the vortex was too strong, but I was feeling a bit under the weather so Yana was on her own to complete the hike (unfortunately her phone died so we didn't get any pictures). Overall though, our visit to Sedona was extremely unique and we thoroughly enjoyed our time spent there. It also provided an opportunity to explore several national monuments in the area!

Our first stop was a visit to Walnut Canyon National Monument, one of three Sinagua settlements we were lucky to explore while in the area. Just outside of Flagstaff a small road takes you out of the city to a remarkable tree covered canyon. It doesn't take long before you notice the dwellings built into the caves on the canyon walls. The last of the settlements date back more than 700 years. The dwellings provided shelter and storage with access to water at the canyon base and an abundant access to resources given the surrounding desert landscape. Several generations built their homes into the canyon walls, many still preserved on sections that are inaccessible now, and for good reason. A plaque at one of the sites that resembled a pile of rubble described the pillaging of artifacts popular in the late 1800's by travelers to the area. While walking along the paved trail through the accessible dwellings, a ranger pointed out the molusk fossils in the cliff rocks and plants growing upside down on the cave roof above us.

Our next step on the Sinagua settlement tour was Tuzigoot (pronounced too-see-whoot) National Monument. The complex of stone rooms is a remnant of a settlement roughly around the same period as those in Walnut Canyon, and represents one of many in the Verde Valley region. Excavated in the 1930's and largely rebuilt, walking through the monument felt like stepping into history (albeit a retelling). On display in the visitor center we found ceramic pots discovered at the site. One particular display caught my attention- a call to action regarding archaeological preservation. The plaque noted that to avoid disturbance and exposure to the elements, archaeological sites would best remain untouched. A little window into an archaeological debate and dialogue on uncovering history while also trying to keep it intact.

Our final stop was a visit to Montezuma Castle, a five story dwelling built over three centuries in Camp Verde. Funny story, despite the name, the settlement was Sinagua and not Aztec. It was named by European-Americans in the 1800's who "discovered" it and incorrectly assumed it was connected to the Aztec emperor Montezuma. What strikes me in particular about this story is the fact that the name stuck and has not been changed. Not particularly surprising given the relationship between European settlers and native populations. On a similar note, at the Castle as well as a the other two monuments we visited, a plaque described that native consultants on Hopi traditions describe that settlements when left were likely meant to one day recycle back to the earth. Despite the consultation, these particular lands were instead reinforced and preserved. I'm sure there is a debate on the benefits of preserving and educating vs. the benefits of adhering to principals and beliefs of an ancient peoples that never meant for their structures to stand on display. Given that we are no experts on the subject (really any subject I hate to admit), these thoughts just represent a few musings during our brief walk through the three monuments in the Verde Valley region. But what a beautiful sight!