The Grand Canyon

We managed to pack a lot of walking into our one day visit to the Grand Canyon. For a few weeks we had been toying with the idea of hiking the Rim to Rim trail, something we learned people plan for extensively up to a year in advance. Given our recent JMT experience, we weren't too concerned about the mileage or the elevation. In the end, the logistics got to us. How do we park our car on one end, day hike (to avoid applying for a permit) and arrive at the other side without transportation to make it back to our starting point? Ultimately we decided to abandon the mission but our experience still had the spirit of an arduous Rim to Rim journey. The night before our visit, we drove to a small town, Williams, AZ, about sixty miles from Grand Canyon National Park. Williams is proud to be the last city on the historic Route 66 that was bypassed by I-40 in the 1980s. Given the cool night weather (the town was already decorated for Christmas) we decided to spend a few nights at a small inn on Route 66 and enjoy a warm bed. It was fascinating to explore a place that had an economy dependent on visitors to the park as well as a preservation of the 1950s. Long after Route 66 became a historic road, whole towns are dedicated to memorializing the identity that it created when the traffic along it was still active.

We woke up early the next morning and drove to the park, the sun just starting to rise over the flat land surrounding us. In such scenery it's hard to picture that we would be losing and gaining more than 10,000 feet in elevation that day. On our way into the park we passed gangs of large elk who made themselves comfortable right in the center of the road.  We parked our car close to the start of the Bright Angel Trail and began our 9.6 mile descent to the base of the Canyon and the roaring Colorado River. The trail, well kept, with bathrooms and water access weaved around the canyons. Slowly, as we descended, we lost site of our starting point, and after a plateau we descended further into the canyon before reaching the river. Walking along the river for a little over a mile, we reached the Silver Bridge and stopped for a break at the Phantom Ranch. To stay there overnight, hikers typically have to reserve spaces a year in advance. After a break in the shade, we refilled our water bottles and took our first step. Almost immediately we had to start our climb. As the signs along our ascent reminded us "Going down is optional, coming up is mandatory." We turned onto the South Kaibab Trail, this time with no access to water along the way, and began our gradual ascent in the early afternoon. Up was the only way out, and we managed to make it back up to the South Rim in just under 6.5 hours. Our legs wobbly, we were exhausted but grateful. Grateful that we felt confident in our ability to hike by all the signs that warned us what were doing was not a day hike. Grateful that we feel healthy and strong. Grateful for all the opportunities available to us and for the chances we are taking to see the world. We were rewarded by a close encounter with an elk, standing just a few feet away as we finished the trail. That night we celebrated our journey with mac and cheese and a few donuts. Perfect ending to an extraordinary day. 

A stop in Williams, AZ on Route 66 before heading to the Grand Canyon.

So you're telling me we have to go back up?

A morning view of the vast expanse of the Grand Canyon.

Hiking down into the Canyon. Only a few thousand more feet to go.

The Colorado River at the base of the Grand Canyon.

Crossing the Colorado River on the Silver Bridge. Officially the halfway mark.